More beauty musings and product tips! ~ Lisa Johnson, makeup + hair artist

This is for women over a certain age and well, anyone looking for excellent beauty tips that *I* personally use. 

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The best advice is to seek out photos and magazines of looks you want and celebrities you think look amazing.  Keep in mind they of course have the best plastic surgeons and makeup artists money can buy - but you get my drift.

Keep it natural looking - the products you use should be the top of the top in terms of foundation and triple milled powders - you can't skimp on these IMHO.

I don't use primers on myself if I'm using Face Atelier or any foundation with silicone - it tends to rub off or slide off on me because of sweating...ick.

Good precision brushes are KEY - nothing substitutes for precision.  It's important to use the right brush for the right area.  I use a brow brush for grooming and an angled brow brush for powder application.  If you use a brow pencil it's a MUST to keep it sharp so a good sharpener is important.  A sturdy lip brush that isn't too soft - same goes for sharpening any lip liner pencil. 

I go for a light natural overall bronzing (non or VERY LIGHT shimmmer) and a clean burst of blush on the apples of the cheeks and across the nose for an exact blush/sunkissed look...I also take the blush and bronzer lightly onto my forehead and my eyes... I'm looking for a soft natural look.  I'm big on cream bronzers and blushes as well - they're more natural looking if you tend to have dry skin.  Learn how to love them and you can lightly brush these onto the skin. 

Lighten up on heavy eye makeup - it just ages severely.  Experiment with individual lashes and new eye colors.  Gone are the day of heavy contouring and heavy liner, IMHO.  Editorial makeup is generally left for the very young face - it doesn't transfer on most people over a certain age. 

As I said don't skimp on the best foundation on you.  And apply where needed, not necessarily ALL OVER...that is very dated.  Porosity and luminosity are what you want.  A good alternative for foundation is tinted moisturizer - and you can use a concealer for any red spots that you need to cover with the tinted moisturizers - they don't cover like regular foundation. 

Precision, the right brushes, the right colors and products are key here.

More musings...

Brows - keep them groomed properly and don't over pluck.  I do my makeup in the window to make sure i don't look like a clown - I have to draw my brows on now because I overplucked when I was in my 20s.  Getting the best match for that is key.  I use an angled brush AND taupe shadow.  I need to look into waterproof brow pencil like Make Up For Ever.

If I use a lipliner I choose one that's neutral pink to give my lips more pigment - as we age we lose pigment - i fill in the lip and then add shimmer gloss or whatever.  Sometimes a lipstain is really a great choice too then gloss over if you want shimmer/gloss. 

Less is more with color - make sure it's the RIGHT color for cheeks/bronzer.  Good brushes make all the diff.

I also use a a dark brown powder and an angle brush for lining my upper lash line.. (Yaby chocolate smoothie brown - a shimmer and very dark choc) it gives the appearance of thicker lashes without adding grease from a pencil.  Whatever bronzer and blush I use, I also add it to my brow bone for a completed color overall... without adding too much shadow - I do use a good shimmer gold or beige (not too light colored or bright) on my lid and in the tear corner of the eye for shimmer and on the v of my lip.

I really love L'Oreal Voluminous mascara in Carbon waterproof of course, as well as Lancome's Hypnose - they are both amazing amazing mascaras.

You can always dim down too much color or eyeshadow with loose powder - I add it again last over everythng I've done for good insurance and to blur the edges - boy do I need that.

A light touch is best all over no matter what.  Good luck! 

Contact Lisa for your one-on-one lesson or girls night out makeup party.  ~ YOU, only better!

by Lisa Johnson, makeup artist of Brides by Lisa

For your honeymoon, streamlining your beauty routine is a good idea.  Since it’s your honeymoon, you’ll want to keep the fun and romance going, and you’ll want to simplify things by using these beauty tips and products.  You'll be sure to look polished and beautiful in a flash, no matter what you have planned.

For starters, travel sizes that are TSA approved are a MUST and there are some great skincare products out there. You can also decant what you use into TSA approved travel containers and bottles.  Be sure to store them in a cute carrying case - this also helps organizing by the side of the sink and you have everything at your fingertips.  Keep an eye out when shopping for your favorite products travel kits. Some of my FAVS:

OLE HENRIKSEN Normal to Combination Skin Starter Kit - I love their complete day-and-night skincare kit for normal-to-combination skin types.  Great travel sizes to bring on your trip!  You'll be fully covered with beautification day and night.  SEPHORA

When faithfully used in conjunction, these products deliver optimum tightening and brightening results as they embrace your skin with hydration andantiaging ingredients such as antioxidants, highly concentrated vitamin C, and alpha hydroxyl acids. Each product feels sensational, smells wonderful, and isa pleasure to use every day. The petite sizes are perfect for first time users, travelers, and gifting.  SEPHORA

This set contains:
- 2.0 oz On the Go Cleanser
- 2.0 oz Pick Me Up Tonic
- 1.0 oz Herbal Day Crème SPF 15
- 1.0 oz Pure Perfection
- 1.0 oz Firm Action Mask
- 1.0 oz Walnut Complexion Scrub

And don't forget your hubby!  I really love this incredible travel kit by Anthony Logistics 'Grab + Go Portables' - A travel set with everything a guy on thego needs for face, body, and hair.  What a nice way to keep the surprises going when you present this to your betrothed when you get into that shower!  ;)

Whether you're headed on a vacation, a business trip, or just to the gym, this kit has all your basics covered. And the best part? These travel sizes are small enough to pack in your carry-on bag and the kit comes with an Anthony Logistics clear, resealable plastic bag, to help you get through the airport securityline even faster.  SEPHORA

This set contains:
- 2.0 oz Glycolic Facial Cleanser
- 2.0 oz Facial Scrub
- 2.0 oz Shave Cream
- 0.33 oz Lip Balm
- 2.0 oz Everyday Shampoo (Coconut)
- 2.0 oz Body Cleansing Gel
- Quart-sized zip-top bag
 

Gorgeous Waterproof Eyes - start your day smudge free to ensure you can take advantage of water fun and in case of any humidity - you will look perfectly polished around the clock.  My pick is 'Beauty In A Box' by Make Up For Ever - Aqua Essentials Kit.  Seven long-lasting must have productsthat resist water and humidity.  SEPHORA limited edition

A SEPHORA limited-edition kit featuring a handpicked collection of my favorites from Make Up For Ever, plus a how-to guide. This set contains:

- 2 x 0.21 oz Aqua Cream in 13 Warm Beige (champagne shimmer) and 15 Taupe (taupe brown shimmer)
- 2 x 0.04 oz Aqua Eyes in Mat Black 0L (black) and Dark Grey 21L (dark metallic grey)
- 0.23 oz Aqua Smoky Lash in Extra Black
- 0.04 oz Aqua Lip in Nude Beige 1C (light neutral beige)
- 0.84 oz Sens'Eyes - a gentle eye makeup remover formula for sensitive eyes

Face and Eyes on the go - a great mash up of face colors in one cute little kit w/brushes - I love Benefit 'Sunday Funday' The New Maggie Collection - A kit that features all you need to pull together a fresh, fabulous look the day after a late night. Also comes in a darker range called 'Screen Queen' The NewMaggie Collection.   SEPHORA

Sunday Funday contains eyeshadow and complexion essentials that create a gorgeous, fresh-faced look.

This set contains:

- 0.1 oz Hoola, bronzing powder with mini natural-bristle brush
- 0.09 oz Benetint, rose-tinted lip & cheek stain
- 0.18 oz Shimmering Rose, lip shine
- 0.01 oz Toasty Liner, eyeliner
- 4 x 0.1 oz eyeshadows in Smimmering Bronze, Pink Satin, Light Champagne, and Pretty In Plum
- 2 Fluff Shadow/Hard Angle Brushes
- Step-By-Step Makeup Lesson
 

Continue the Body Love and Beautification with CAUDALIE Paris - Spa In A Box - The ultimate collection of deluxe spa favorites.  (Be sure and decant if carrying on board.)  I love this kit because it has a little bit of every product for super luxury to pamper yourself and the one you love.  SEPHORA

Can't find the time to unwind at the Caudalie Vinotherapie Spa at The Plaza? Pamper yourself by bringing the experience home with the exclusive Spa InA Box set. This ensemble provides an array of luxurious lotions, scrubs, and gels for spa indulgence in the comfort of your own home. Each of thesepremium products is enriched with plant based ingredients that have been specifically chosen to revive tired and dull skin. The result is a firm, toned,relaxed and revitalized radiance you will love.  SEPHORA

This boxed set includes:
- 2.5 oz Hand and Nail Cream
- 6.7 oz Body Lotion
- 6.7 oz Merlot Shower Gel
- 1.0 oz Beauty Elixir
- 1.6 oz Mini Merlot Friction Scrub
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SUN SAFETY - Don't forget the sunscreen!  I'm partial to waterproof sunscreens and one of my favorites for the face and body is Coppertone Sensitive Skin 50 - YES 50! - contains Zinc Oxide, non-greasy, Oil-Free, free of dyes and alcohol.  Waterproof - and mostly it absorbs across 100% of the UVA/UVB spectrum.  Won't irritate the eyes or sting and is frangrance-free.  Look for this great sunscreen at your local drugstore and Wallyworld.  Also comes in a Body formulae. Don't take a chance with your honeymoon being ruined by a burn!  PROTECT!  WALMART

SUNBURN RELIEF!  You know it's inevitable, somewhere on that beautiful bod you will have not protected, or stayed out too long and you have a burn that hurts.  Don't let this stop you from enjoying your honeymoon one second. Lather on the tried-and-true NOXZEMA deep cleansing cream - the original formula.  You'll feel a cooling sensation immediately andthe moisturizing will give you double duty.  Always wear sunscreen and always have a backup sunburn relief plan.  It works!  WALMART

 _____________________________________ ENJOY!

Lisa Johnson is a published makeup and hair professional working in the beauty and music industry in Nashville and nationally.  You may find her portoflio of work at www.lisajohnsonmua.com and www.bridesbylisa.com 

-Lisa Johnson, makeup + hair :: www.lisajohnsonmua.com

Summer is in full upswing here in the sizzling south, and with that comes heat and the dreaded humidity. I've found a few must-have items for your purse, travel bag and pool/beach bag. From inexpensive drug store brands to higher end department store finds. Whatever your choices, enjoy the summer and all it's offerings - pare down, relax, chill and simply enjoy!

My personal picks for YOUR 2010 Summer of Love ~ 

NEED - A HIGH QUALITY CLEANSER/TONER IN ONE STEP

Lancôme Cleanser - Eau Fraîche Douceur - www.lancome-usa.com - A Luxurious Balance of Science and Nature: Reveal Purified, Pampered Skin In one step, this refreshing cleansing water with Micellar Technology and soothing Rose de France lifts and removes impurities and even waterproof, long- lasting face, eye and lip makeup. Skin is purified, toned and revitalized.

NEED  - A GENTLE BUT EFFECTIVE REMOVER THAT WORKS ON ALL MAKEUP

Boots No7 Quick Thinking 4-in-1 Wipes - www.target.com - Be good to your skin even when you’re short of time with these gentle, fragrance-free wipes. Cleanse and remove impurities, tone and moisturize skin, and even remove waterproof eye makeup, in one easy step. Contains vitamin pro B5 extracts of witch hazel and fennel to help cleanse pores and moisturize. They’ll leave your skin feeling smooth, clean and fresh. Good for all skin types; 30 pk. ARTISTS TIP: Great to keep by your bed for when you are absolute too tired, but not too LAZY ;) to remove all your makeup before bed. KEEP ONE IN THE FRIDGE FOR THOSE HOT HOT DAYS...for a clean sweep! 

NEED - A LITTLE COLOR FOR EYES AND LIPS IN ONE KIT AT A REASONABLE PRICE

NYX Nude on Nude Natural Look Kit - www.nyxcosmetics.com - An incredible variety of 9 nude on nude eye shadows with 2 amazing lip glosses in a sexy tiered kit! You will look flawlessly beautiful for pennies - $11.00 ! They also have a beautiful purple and bronze kit to try. At this price you can afford to buy them all!  I love this nude one for the nude trend for 2010.

NEED - TO POP MY EYES WITH A NEW COLOR FOR EVENING

Rimmel Exaggerate Waterproof Eye Definer - www.walgreens.com - Strong sexy eyes continue to smoulder from the catwalks. Rimmel’s innovative formula gives you colour that hits you between the eyes. ARTISTS TIP: Line and smudge your eyes for a sexy 2010 modern look with Deep Ocean (230) - summer is for color, so play em up! Available in 6 outstanding and inexpensive shades.

NEED - A PRODUCT TO BLOT MY FACE WITHOUT ADDING MORE MAKEUP

Sonia Kushuk Blotting Sheets - www.target.com - Beauty master Sonia Kashuk delivers the easiest way to freshen up after a long day, tucked in a tiny pouch and ready to toss in your handbag. Matte oil- blotting papers eliminate shine, allowing you to quickly refresh the skin or prep it for touch ups. Perfect for summer steamy weather!  ARTISTS TIP: Just press gently but firmly to your face to absorb excess oil. Never smear them like a wipe - by pressing you absorb the oil from your skin and leave your makeup pigment in tact. Includes pouch and 100 blotting papers - never tested on animals. A summer MUST HAVE!

NEED - A NEW SUMMER SCENT TO TANTALIZE THAT DOES NOT OVERWHELM

Carol's Daughter Almond Cookie Body Collection a beautifully scented line of body products - NUM NUM! - www.sephora.com - Almond, vanilla, and sandalwood come together in this warm and sweet scent. Carol's Daughter Body Cleansing Gel may be used in the bath or shower. This glorious collection of bath, shower, body, and fragrance products make layering this delicious scent, pure pleasure. ARTISTS TIP: Use the salt scrub before any tanning products and to get an extra smooth AND fragrant body your lover will just adore - soft SOFT!

NEED -  A SUNSCREEN WIPE FOR MY SENSITIVE FACE & BODY

Doctor T's Supergoop UVA & UVB SPF 30 Sunscreen Swipes with Zinc for Sensitive Skin - www.sephora.com - Pre-moistened, paraben-free wipes for the face and body that are formulated to calm, soothe, and protect sensitive skin. SPF 30+ Swipes are ideal for all skin types, especially sensitive skin. The gentle, effective, and broad-spectrum UV protection is delivered in a non-greasy formulation that provides a natural, paraben-free system of preservation. Zinc Oxide provides non-irritating powerful UV protection for ages 6 months and up and Green Tea reduces irritation and redness and combats free radical damage, helping to prevent signs of aging. Vitamin E softens skin and further protects against environmental damage. ARTISTS TIP: Ladies, the first sign of aging is not just your face and neck - concentrate on your hands and your decolletage - those areas NEVER lie - but you can fib if you make sure you protect these ultra delicate areas too!

Copyright @ 2010 Lisa Johnson - makeup + hair artist - www.lisajohnsonmua.com - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

www.tennesseebridal.com

by Lisa Johnson, makeup + hair  -  www.lisajohnsonmua.com

Here are a few go-to hair products in my pro hair kit used often on my clients (and myself).   Dry Shampoos and Leave-In Oil Therapies - These are SUMMER BEAUTY BAG MUSTS!  All products and more can be found at www.sleekhair.com

Dry Shampoos are a waterless way to freshen and restyle hair when you can't indulge in a regular shampoo and blow out. For extremely oily hair, just one washing a day might not even be enough to keep their tresses looking their best. By using you can clean your hair any time even if you are nowhere near water. If your hair is oily or needs refreshing in the middle of the day or you just don't have time for a shower, try these dry shampoos:
 

Bumble and Bumble Hair Powder Bumble and Bumble Hair Powder is available in 5 different shades: Black, Brown, White, Red, and Blondish.  Ideal for oily (or less than clean) hair, styling fine hair and root touch-ups.

Use:  Hair Powder requires a slightly oily surface to adhere to (we recommend a light application of Styling Wax as a base if hair is clean); section dry hair at the scalp; hold can 10-12 inches away from hair and spray thoroughly, being sure to penetrate all layers (if an overall effect is desired); let dry; shake out excess with fingers and style. How to absorb oil (dry cleanse): Hold can 10-12 inches from dry hair; spray thoroughly, concentrating on oily areas; let dry; brush out thoroughly and style.

Big Sexy Hair Volumizing Dry Shampoo is a mineral and clay based dry shampoo that creates volume as it absorbs impurities, excess oil and product build-up. No water necessary.

• Helps maintain color with less frequent washings
• Tacl-free formula is invisible
• Provides UV protection

Tips: Leave in hair for two minutes, then brush out excess product. Provides a matte finish - if a shinier texture is desired, follow up with Big SExy Hair Big Shine Spray. Great as a pick-me-up between washings.

Leave-in Oil Treatments restore shine and softness while strengthening brittle hair. Replenishes nourishment to dry, damaged, over processed, natural and colored hair. Protects hair from styling heat and UV damage.  

Aquage SeaExtend Silkening Oil Treatment is a revolutionary new product that is exceptional for smoothing and silkening coarse, frizzy and curly hair, but lightweight enough to use on all hair types. Infused with unique blends of sea kale, sea fennel and sea beet extracts to resotre moisture, protect and sooth the scalp. Ultra-light, extra virgin argan oil and sweet almond oil penetrate to nourish and silken hair, provide excellent humidity resistance and lasting frizz control. Crystal clear formula (no dyes added).

Use: Twist pump to unlock. Pump small amount into hand and apply evenly to damp hair. Apply more as needed. Comb through and blow style as desired.

Joico K-Pak Color Therapy Restorative Styling Oil conditions, strengthen, and prevents color loss. Containing a blend of Argan Oil, Manketti Oil and Evening Primrose oils, this product:

• Seals and nourishes the cuticle to lock in color
• Strengthens, protects and repairs hair like only K-PAK can
• Imparts vibrant, color-enhancing shine
• Conditions hair for incredible softness and smoothness
• Dramatically reduces drying and styling time  

www.tennesseebridal.com

SPRING 2010 HOT Beauty Trends!  ~ Lisa Johnson :: Makeup & Hair ~ www.lisajohnsonmua.com

I've got the scoop on the hottest Spring beauty trends for 2010. Here’s the breakdown on hair, eyes, nails, cheeks and lips for spring.  I’m just itching for spring to arrive. I miss wearing my sandals!

1. Ballerina Buns

It’s one of the biggest hair trends this spring. Buns were also one of my favorite looks at the LANVIN Spring 2010 show. It’s time to start investing in bobby pins!

2.  Lower Lash Lines

False lower lash lines trend is giving your eyes a new look for spring. The look can be very dramatic and bold. Is this trend a go or would you pass on this one? Shu Uemura Premium Radiant Blue False Eyelashes $50

3. Braids

I always loved the fish tail braids. It’s an easy and inexpensive way to add style to your look. The hair style can be messy but still chic.

4. Crimped Textured Hair

I remember watching the Diane Von Furstenberg Spring 2010 show and I was really excited to see crimped hair on the models. Crimped textured goddess hair is so in for spring!

5. Purple is Still On

Believe it or not, purple is still a favorite beauty trend rolling into spring.

6. Bright Lips

Bright lips at the Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2010 show was the look. Pink or Red Lips? Both are great colors for spring but remember to keep the eye makeup subtle.

7. Give Me Shimmer

Spring is all about the shimmer. Pair it with a pink lip gloss… ooh la la! NARS Orgasm Illuminator leaves your skin luminous and radiant. Remember, a complexion that glows…goes! $29

8. Pastel Eyes

The 80’s trend is in full effect and will surely give your eyes some pop with shades of purples, blues, and cotton candy shadows.

9. Peach Lips

Coral peachy colors adds a soft touch to your face. It’s a shade that’s appropriate for any occasion. A bright peach lip was seen all down the runway last fall. A very popular spring beauty trend!

~ by Makeup Artist Lisa Johnson - www.lisajohnsonmua.com

'Now that I'm over 40, what makeup products should I choose and exactly how do I apply them?' Often that's the question women ask me.  Each week I will share makeup tips and product reviews specifically geared for women over 40  ~  Week 1 Motto: Never be afraid to try new products!

Week 1:  Foundation

The foundation you use should be appropriate for your skin type and one that matches your underlying skin tone. Water or silicone based foundations are generally best for most mature skin, and depending on the coverage you need, you can either use creams or liquids. A good rule of thumb is the the more coverage you need, you general would go with a cream base with more pigment - and if you have delicate skin that tends to sag a bit, liquids may be your best friend.

There also are the mineral foundations that are truly excellent as well, but generally offer less coverage in comparison and take several "coats" of application to cover. If you choose mineral foundation products, look for those that offer MATTE finishes, so there is NO shimmer. (Most all mineral foundations are NOT camera ready or suitable for professional photography use.)

Using a foundation brush or sponge (there are non-latex versions you can find), blend the makeup downward and outward. Be sure to start sheer and blend the makeup down the jaw line so that there is no obvious makeup line. 

I'm a big believer in applying the best products you can purchase, with the appropriate tools.  You not only will have a foot up with pro tools, but you'll save money by using less in the long run - AND it's more sanitary.  A great makeup brush is your best friend ~ check out Corinna B brushes - she's an amazing international makeup artist and I LOVE her line of brushes!  I use them and you should too.  She also has KILLER tutorial videos, so give her a look and learn a few tips from this Kiwi from down under!

Tinted moisturizers are great for dry or maturing skin because they don't seep into lines and wrinkles and provide light sheer coverage. You can make your own with a favorite non greasy moisturizer mixed in with your favorite foundation.
 
If you have red spots or discolorations - use concealer under a sheer liquid foundation and reapply if needed over. (Concealers - will be discussed in Week 2.) 

*** Foundation TIP ~ to base match your skintone make sure you apply in a line on your jaw area... blend to see if it disappears with coverage - that's the one you want.  You want to see seamless coverage and a perfect match from your face to your neck.  Your decolletage should match as well.  

A few of my picks for 2010 to try ~ Face Atelier Ultra Foundation is amazing - most every makeup artist I know is always amazed at how this silicone-based foundation glides on and appears flawless on every skin type.  You also have a host of colors, along with Plus and Minus - an ingenious pairing to highlight (Plus) and contour (Minus) with any of their foundation colors you choose!  ~ L'Oreal True Match compact and liquid foundations can fool any eye and you will find so many flawless shades to truly match your skin!  Another amazing drugstore brand that works like professional brands for less. ~ MAC Studio Sculpt is a brilliant GEL based foundation that is buildable and dries to a satin finish.  Beautiful! 


Stay tuned for Week 2 for Concealers.  :)  You can view my website, gallery and find out more about me at www.lisajohnsonmua.com

Makeup for Women Over 40

Under eye circles lisa johnson :: makeup artist - www.lisajohnsonmua.com

Dark bags and circles under your eyes make you look shattered even when you're not. Here's how to combat these dark shadows that make your pretty eyes look sad and depress you every morning...   What causes under eye circles?  An under-eye circle is a hollow, bluish or grey coloured marking caused by poor blood and lymphatic circulation around the eyes. The epidermis around the eye is effectively 4 times thinner than the skin on the rest of the face, which means the bluish colours of the blood vessels appear more noticeable. In addition to these circles, bags can appear, which are stored-up water and fat. Being a particularly sensitive area, the skin around the eyes is easily affected by pollution, tobacco, alcohol and lack of sleep.   How to combat under-eye circles and darkness - Lifestyle  If you don't normally get them but they appear after a late night or too much alcohol the night before, a good night’s sleep will make them disappear.   - Age-old treatments You can decongest the area under your eyes by making camomile or cornflower herbal infusions to calm and soothe the area, and applying them as compresses. You can also drain them and strengthen the area with Vitamins A and C, which reduce water retention, refresh the eyes and tone the epidermis.   - Operation camouflage 1) Choosing the right product: Under-eye circle cover is an essential beauty buy. The newest ones on the market both camouflage and moisturise skin, improving the microcirculation. Choose a shade that’s lighter than your natural skin tone. Tip: if the product is too dark, you could end up emphasising circles and making them stand out even more. Likewise, if the product is too light, it won’t camouflage your circles. 2) Applying the product correctly: It should be applied very lightly after your foundation, dabbed on gently using your fingertip, going from the inner corner of your eye towards the outer corner until absorbed. Tip: apply a little loose powder over the top to make it last longer!   - Eye masks These reduce tiredness and leave you feeling relaxed. Chill your mask then place it over closed eyes. When you take it off, the under-eye area will feel smoother and refreshed.   - Cosmetic surgery There are many surgery techniques that treat the delicate under-eye area. Collagen injections treat wrinkles; incision and reduction of the skin reduces the size of bags; and chemical peels can rejuvenate your eyes. However, none of these methods specifically treat under-eye circles.   www.tennesseebridal.com

You Can Have Great Brows!

As a professional makeup artist,  I get a lot of questions about brow shaping.  Nothing ages a face more than thin, overly tweezed brows - here are some general guidelines and tips to help you get a more perfect brow.             ~ lisa johnson :: makeup artist

Determine the Correct Shape

Start the eyebrow shaping process by determining the correct design for your face and features. You will need an eyeliner pencil to start. First hold the pencil against the side of your nose, vertically, straight up to where it meets the brow. This is the spot where your eyebrow should start. As a guideline, make a small mark with the pencil there on your skin.

Next you will turn the pencil at an angle, holding it against the nostril, so that it crosses over the center of your eye. Notice where the pencil now intersects the eyebrow, this is where the peak of your arch should start. Make another mark on your skin as a guide here.

Lastly, keep moving the pencil at an angle against your nostril until it meets the edge of the outer eye. Where the end of the pencil now meets the eyebrow is your eyebrow’s ending point. Make another mark on your skin here.

Using these three marks on both eyes provides you a general guideline on how the shape of your eyebrow should be based on the shape of your face.

The other consideration for the correct eyebrow shape is the thickness. Ideally, the impact of your eyebrows should balance with the rest of your face and hair. If you have thick hair with larger facial features, your eyebrows should be thicker and more dramatic. In contrast, if you have thin hair and petite features, your eyebrows should be more subtle.

Tweezing

Always trim before tweezing, not after, as you might end up removing some hairs that just needed to be trimmed. Start by brushing the eyebrow hairs straight up with your brow brush, and then trim any stray hairs that extend past the upper brow line. Next, brush all the hairs straight down and trim the hairs extending past the brow line underneath. After you have done your trimming, brush all the hairs back into place.

Tweezing can be a painful process for some, so to ease the discomfort, you should pluck after a steamy shower or a warm face washing. This will help the pores to open and enable the hairs to remove easier. If you are particularly sensitive, slightly numbing the area with ice before tweezing will also help.

Always make sure that you have good lighting when eyebrow shaping. Using the previous method for ensuring the proper shape, follow the marks and tweeze the hairs in the direction they grow. Move back and forth between the brows after every couple of plucks, to ensure proper symmetry.

Filling in the Brow Line

For those of you with sparse eyebrows, tweezing is not necessary. Instead, you will need to build your eyebrows back to a proper shape. Selecting an appropriate pencil color is crucial, so test a few at the makeup counter to be sure the color is right. One of my favorite brands of pencil is Lancome Le Crayon Poudre.  Many artists prefer to use an angled brush with brow/eyeshadow powder, myself included.  You can also find eyebrow stencils and kits to help guide you with the correct line.  These come in many shapes and sizes - Eyebrowz  makes great stencils and kits for this purpose.

Specific Tips

• For pale or thin eyebrows, try tinting as it looks more natural than an eyebrow pencil. Just be sure to use a professional, licensed cosmetologist, and never try tinting at home. You don’t want to risk your eyesight, just for beauty!
• Embrace the natural shape of your eyebrows and don’t try to change them completely. You are born with the correct eyebrow shape for your face, so let it guide you.
• Preview the look of your eyebrows before shaping by hiding the hairs with a white eyeliner pencil.
• Avoid overdoing eyebrow shaping, as less is truly better. Thin eyebrows tend to make your face look instantly older.
• Tweezing is usually more effective than waxing as the wax process can lead to a change in the hair direction and skin texture if overused.
• Ultimately the point of eyebrow shaping is to adjust the viewer’s focus away from your eyebrows, to your eyes instead.
• While it is not preferred to completely change your eyebrow structure, you can make minor changes to what nature recommended in order to alter some eye appearances. For example, remove a few extra hairs from your eyebrows at the starting point to make close-set eyes appear wider. 

Hire a Professional

If you are still nervous about eyebrow shaping, consider a professional brow session. The technique is not usually an expensive procedure, depending on the thickness and amount of hair to groom.  At the very least, you can pay for one session and then simply pluck the stray hairs at home for maintenance. 

lisa johnson :: makeup artist        www.lisajohnsonmua.com